Johnny Sușală, chef at Casa Timiș

Creativity and rigor are the two traits that perfectly define this gastronomy performer at Casa Timiș. An authentic chef, built over years and years of apprenticeship, Johnny Șușală believes that cooking is not done on television but by starting from the bottom and gradually working your way up, “plate by plate,” towards professional maturity.

Who is Johnny Șușală?

My name is Ion, but my name proved difficult to pronounce on cruise ships. So Johnny was a necessary compromise. I represent the fourth generation of a family of chefs. I dabbled in the hospitality industry since I was little, especially during vacations when I helped my grandmother and mother who worked at the Budapesta restaurant in Bucharest. Later, when I returned from the army, I stayed in the kitchen.

So it’s your great love, the only one…

Yes, I have never done any other job, and I never thought about what I would do if I weren’t a chef. But in the kitchen, I went through all stages of training, starting with washing dishes and peeling potatoes.

Any unique memory from the early days?

In 1998, at the Thalia restaurant, Dinică told me that I would become great.

What did you cook for him?

Carbonara pasta.

That simple?

Seemingly simple, but many people don’t know how to make it and add cream. And it’s not the only dish terrorized by “creativity.” Tiramisu would be another example.

Baptism by fire – “Floating Cities”

At what age did you start “cruising”?

I embarked for the first time at 21 years old. With Princess Cruises. Others followed. I’ve been to the Mexican Riviera, Alaska, the Amazon, and the Mediterranean.

What is it like in Alaska?

When I was there in August, it was warm. It’s a spectacular land.

What do people eat there?

American cod and that orange salmon, delicious!

What did you learn on the ship?

Here, I learned the foundations of French, Italian, Mediterranean, and Tex-Mex cuisine. I also learned about organization and discipline, which are mandatory in this floating city where you can find everything—police, firefighters, a mall…

Like in the army?

Exactly. The kitchen was 4-5 stars and demanded a lot of rigor. For example, not many people know how to make an authentic Caesar salad or even what a Caesar salad is.

A little gastronomy history in the spotlight:

Caesar Salad So, what is a Caesar salad?

It’s a myth, shrouded in mystery. It doesn’t come from Julius Caesar, as mistakenly believed. It was created in Mexico by an Italian chef named Cesare Cardini, the personal chef of the Italian ambassador, using what he had in the refrigerator. Just like English trifle or the croissant, which was created by Roman bakers employed by Austro-Hungarian nobles who brought it to Vienna. Australians and Russians argue over Pavlova. But that’s another discussion. Returning to the Caesar Salad, the ambassador introduced it on all the gala menus.

So, many chefs make it by ear…?

Yes, just like how we have chicken in our beef salad, Mexicans do the same with Caesar salad. Authentically, it’s made with mature romaine lettuce, anchovies, egg yolk, raised with egg and mayonnaise, Parmesan cheese, garlic, chicken, and the dressing is made with tequila and lime. It’s not made just any way… this salad has its philosophy. Americans have “naturalized” it by adding salmon, shrimp, and crispy bacon. In Europe, they adapted it with tomatoes. In Romania, many “blaspheme” it with iceberg lettuce…

Creativity is not only a gift from nature but also a consequence of gastronomic culture.

You’re a purist… doesn’t that clash with creativity?

Tradition and authenticity of the dish must be respected. Creativity begins only after you know how to make a dish perfectly and when you have a wealth of techniques at your fingertips. Only then can you create your own style. Creativity without gastronomic culture, without passion and rigor, doesn’t work too well.

What are your sources of inspiration?

I draw inspiration from art and nature, from the paintings of the great masters of the past and present, and, why not admit it, from the internet as well.

Which paintings inspire you?

There are many geometric shapes on the plate, if you think about it. So I draw inspiration from Picasso and Kandinsky.

Is it true that geometry sings in Kandinsky’s work?

Yes, he’s my favorite. Picasso was until about 2 years ago, referring to his abstract period.

England, the second country

How did your journey continue?

In 2005, I went to France, to Paris, where I stayed for just a year to solidify my foundations in French cuisine. Then I went to England.

What can you tell us about England?

It’s my second home; my son was born there. I worked in London, at Belvedere and The Orange Tree. I took courses with Gordon Ramsay and underwent training. They place great importance on local values and ingredients. The meat, fish, and vegetables, everything is fresh and local.

What did you frequently prepare?

Dishes with goat cheese in all forms, from jam to tart, as well as burgers and fish. But the iconic dish is steak with chips. Like at Casa Timiș, we changed the menus very often.

What is the most important lesson?

Respect for food is just like respect for a person. Its absence cannot be hidden.

When did you join the Casa Timiș team?

I returned to the country in 2009, and since 2010, I have been the personal chef of the Timiș family. Every day, I surprised them with something different. Mrs. Timiș knows how to appreciate and treat the chef correctly, and that is quite rare in Romania.

The portrait of a perfectionist chef

So, what does the perfect client for Johnny Șușală look like?

A connoisseur who trusts the chef. They don’t ask for cream in Moroccan beef soup that has cumin, coriander, chickpeas, and peas – it’s sacrilege. In the West, you eat what the chef proposes, without modifications or “improvements.” Even if God descended to Earth, I still wouldn’t prepare a dish that isn’t correct.

What was the biggest challenge of your career?

Leaving. I was afraid I wouldn’t cope. I had heard about other chefs who worked on ships and failed. I resigned when Hurricane Katrina hit, and when I couldn’t bear the seasickness anymore. Another challenge was the enormous workload: I didn’t have a day off for eight months. During my second contract, I got hepatitis from exhaustion. It’s a very demanding profession, standing on your feet, stress, pressure – physical and mental exhaustion. It’s a man’s job.

However, there are more and more women chefs… So, you’re not in favor of women in the kitchen…

I don’t have that misogyny. It’s a very demanding profession. I prefer to cook at home to save time, and she can do something else.

What is the most beautiful thing about this profession? And what is the least pleasant?

The pressure, the adrenaline. You are always in action, forgetting about standing on your feet, forgetting about stress. The least pleasant thing is that you can never eat sitting down in the kitchen; you have to keep up with the pace.

And at home?

When a chef comes home, they open the fridge, contemplate it for a long time, and then “break it open,” taking out half of its contents and eating. At work, you get full just from smelling and tasting.

The chef – an encyclopedia

How do you become a good chef?

You have to endure a lot until you reach professional maturity and show respect for the ingredients. Not all cooks are professionals. There are only a few of us who want to maintain a standard that many do not respect.

And what are the basic qualities?

Character is essential. Perfectionism and being traditionalist – I don’t know when they are qualities and when they are flaws, but without them, it’s not possible. Being organized – everything must be in its place. Then, the ingredients used and the utensils. What you cook with is vital.

“Fried tomatoes” and “bulz ciobănesc,” among Johnny Șușală’s preferences

What is your favorite dish?

A good beef steak.

And from traditional Romanian cuisine? By regions…

From Oltenia – “fried tomatoes,” more precisely a tomato stew with an omelet added at the end.

From Moldova – eggplant salad, “bulz ciobănesc” (polenta with cheese and bacon), “tochitură muntenească” (pork stew), “pomana porcului” (traditional pork dishes).

From Bucovina – beans and mushrooms with sour cream.

From the coastal region – grilled sprat

From Transylvania – goulash like home.

What is the best dessert at Casa Timiș?

Oblivion. It has never been taken off the menu. It’s Nico’s (Lontras’ recipe) – an extraordinary chocolate mousse.

What does your childhood taste like?

My mother used to make incredible plum dumplings, gomboți.

Where is the cuisine heading? How will it look in over 20 years?

The best chefs will be rare and highly sought after. Fine dining and experimental kitchens will continue to exist. But in 50 years, we won’t have proper food anymore, it will be genetically modified, and there won’t be any chefs. Time is the biggest enemy, everyone wants to have as much as possible, not to cook or wait for food. In other words, fast food.

Thank you very much, Johnny Șușală!